George, Mossel Bay and on inland

From the Knysna area we continue west on the N-2 stopping to check the coastal towns of Wilderness and Victoria Bay, but as they were utterly deserted, head on into George—which lies about half way between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth.

Although the entrance to town is missable, the small downtown area is quite attractive.  After landing accommodations, we wander around the main street, and later in the afternoon find a  small botanic garden at the edge of town which makes for nice walking, with the impressive Outeniqua mountain range as a backdrop.

The following day we return to the coast, visiting Mossel Bay, where we wander through the very interesting museum and grounds that feature the landing of Portuguese explorers Bartolemeo Dias and Vasco da Gama.  Along with the replica of the sailing vessel used by Dias-- sailed down to SA from Portugal to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the landing--, there are legions of interesting old maps(mostly copies, but interesting nonetheless), as well as a small shell museum, and the famed “Post Office Tree”, a sprawling, ancient milkweed tree used by sailors as a “mailbox”.  Those returning to Europe took mail back, while those heading to India and SE Asia brought mail with them to those then remote parts.  In some small way the past flickers to life in the midst of the more modern world in Mossel Bay.
 
A tiny bit further down the road lies the Point, where enthusiasts surf in what looked like a treacherously rocky bay, and then a mite further down the coast to Dana Bay, where we picnicked on yogurt and fruits while surveying the horizon for the whales that are now calving along the coast. 

From George we move further inland, over the beautiful Outeniqua mountain pass, and into the valley where we’ll find the town of Oudtshoorn—whose claim to fame and past wealth is the ostrich feather.

		George area VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL

The Knysna area

From Storm’s River we continue along the Garden route, first stopping at Plettenberg Bay.  It is a wide arc of sand next to the Keurboom river estuary, with a series of incoming waves stretching far out into the bay.  The town is rather built- up, and there is little direct access to the beach, but it’s bustling and colorful, with lots of attractive cafes lining the main drag.  It’s fabulous weather, and we enjoy a light lunch in the sunshine before continuing on to the Knysna area.

Knysna is a smallish town which lies in the heart of the country’s old lumber territory.  The Knysna River flows into a large lagoon, which then narrows between two massive headlands as it meets the sea.  The lagoon draws lots of watersport enthusiasts in the summer, and the Heads, as they are known, command beautiful views of the area and the ocean.  The East Head is residential, while the West Head is in a private reserve called the Featherbeds. 

We stay in the cottages at Brenton on Sea—once again rejoining my parents--, a collection of mostly summer homes that sit on the cliff overlooking the open ocean just adjacent to the Featherbed Reserve.  Below lies a wide crescent of empty beach rimmed on one end by a huge rock, and about 7 km further on by the hamlet of Buffalo Bay.  The beach offers spectacular walking at all times of day, and we indulge frequently.

On one of the days we go on the only possible excursion for visiting the Featherbed Reserve, a combo of boat across the lagoon with ride up the mountain, and then a pleasant hike back down to the dock.  The views are lovely, and the trail visits sea caves, and skirts the lagoon where a lone seal is frolicking. After three nights we’re ready to move just down the road to George.

		Knysna area VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL

Tsitsikamma Forest and Storm’s River Mouth

From Port Elizabeth we drive west on the N-2 which ends in Cape Town.  We make a small detour into Jeffrey’s Bay—previously a deserted spot made for seashell collectors—.  Now houses scar the landscape, and it carries the distinct air of “summer resort” as it’s very quiet.  We pass through singularly unattractive Humansdorp and swing back to the coast at the small upscale—albeit empty—town of St. Francis Bay, and then down to Cape St. Francis.  Here the wind blows wildly off the ocean’s white caps, and the waves beat savagely against the rocky coast.   There is a penguin rehab center which we give a miss.  A lone lighthouse breaks the horizon. 

Back to the N-2 which cuts a ribbon through long green and yellow meadows on extensive mountain slopes, drenched in extraordinary light.  We arrive in the Tsitsikamma Forest area, and stay the night in cabins at the edge of the forest where we meet up with my parents once again.  The following morning we all cross the legendary Storm’s River bridge over the deeply carved river gorge, and then down to the coast where the river meets the turbulent sea. 

The waves dance wildly, and the wind is unrelenting  The air is hazy with sea spray.  As we walk the path to the suspension bridge over the river mouth, we are protected from the wind and violent sea, able instead to concentrate on the dense tapestry of plant life, which occasionally opens a window on the river mouth.  The suspension bridge hangs high over the roiling meeting of sea and river.  On the far side is a stone beach piled high with driftwood.  The smooth rocks rattle and roar with a loud sucking noise as the waves move up and down. 

After a snack at the restaurant we decide to spend an additional night on the park grounds, and we book a waterfront “chalet” for the following night.  On our return the next day we first stop to visit the “Big Tree”, a gargantuan yellowwood tree that is about 1000 years old now—a stunning giant in the midst of a younger forest.  We spend several hours hiking along the coast on what is the first leg of the Otter Trail.  It’s a beautifully laid trail that combines a dirt track through dense steep forests with rocky bays.  We even meet a seal who’s luxuriously sunning itself on the rocks.  For the remainder of the afternoon we enjoy the oceanfront view from our little chalet .  The rock dassies and seagulls come close in the expectation of food.  After a simple dinner we marvel at the infinity of stars overhead.  Sleep comes with the relentless rhythm of pounding waves, and sunrise shines straight into our bedroom early the next morning.

		Storm’s River Mouth VIEW SLIDE SHOW DOWNLOAD ALL