We leave the wilds of northeastern South Africa behind as we board the small propeller plane in Hoedspruit and head (via Johannesburg) to the south coast city of Port Elizabeth. When I was born here, it was in a much smaller town, known for its beaches and its unforgiving wind. It’s now a city of 1.5 million. We discover that even the hospital where I was born has morphed into something unrecognizable. It’s infinitely busier, the old downtown has become a true eyesore, but the shoreline—particularly beyond Humewood—has an attractive and lengthy boardwalk. Many of the “landmarks” of my early childhood have either gone or changed beyond belief, so our walk through the past is short and we head west out of town to explore the beautiful coastline. Thick gnarly bush growth spreads just inland from the dunes and rocky crags that comprise the wild coast.
We drive through farmland, wild areas, and along river mouths before circling back into town, where my parents revisit their early life together—from first rooming house, to their Friday night party central, via the doctor’s house to endless memories of places friends and colleagues lived, along with the respective stories. Definitely a walk down memory lane, but one that only gives an occasional glimmer to the early childhood memories that I have myself.
On our second day we head inland about 60 km to Addo Elephant Park, something I vividly remember visiting as a child. It has grown tremendously and is now a National Park, As we check in at the reception area, we’re told that there are lions on the road not far ahead, so we rush off. They are nothing short of spectacular. Two males lounge lazily at the side of the road,ignoring the several carloads of photographers and gapers. From there we visit a series of different waterholes in the park, watching a couple of large elephant families come down and enjoy the water. The antics of the young elephants—one of whom is at one stage charging at a cheeky jackal—are incredibly entertaining. We also see tortoises, zebras, a lone buffalo who’s just had a serious mudbath and loads of birds. Another really satisfying view of wildlife.
From here we will begin the drive west towards Cape Town, along good portions of the famed “Garden Route”. Stay tuned.
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