From Paarl we decide to make the loop through the Bain’s Kloof pass once again, this time with bright skies and the opportunity to stop and actually see the views. We head towards Malmesbury but then double back to Wolseley and take the pass in the same direction once again. It’s most worthwhile—and we’re able to stop quite frequently to get closer looks at the Witte River, the wild vegetation and to admire the feat of the pass itself. Once over the top we leave the wild rocks and raging river behind and find ourselves enjoying the fresh green patchwork of vineyards and fruit orchards laid out for as far as the eye can see.
We then retrace our steps once again heading behind the boulders of Paarl, stopping at a vineyard called Babylonstoren (Babylon’s Tower) where we’ve been told there are spectacular gardens. They are indeed incredible—with lemon and guava trees, scent and lavender gardens, to a prized clivia (a So. African lily) collection that is just bursting into flower. There are quince and figs, huge cacti, chard and more, all surrounded by infinite rows of different varieties of grapes. At one corner sits the “manor”, today a hotel, and there is an organic restaurant on the premises as well. Sadly, it’s fully booked, so we move on.
About 30 km southeast of Paarl lies another arm of wine valley. Originally settled by French Huguenots(the persecuted Protestants of France) in the late 1600’s, the Huguenots first fled to the Netherlands. A couple of hundred were eventually sent(as refugees) to the Dutch Cape Colony, where several families were given tracts of land which they settled, farmed and began to turn into what today is a thriving, gorgeous wine valley.
Franschhoek (French corner) is truly a gem. It is small, but offers a main street full of galleries and shops and renowned restaurants. There are untold number of accommodations ranging from very upscale manor houses on wine estates to humbler B&B’s. The valley is wide but surrounded by huge jutting peaks, many of which are topped with snow on the day we arrive. The view is spectacular in almost any direction. As it’s a Sunday, Capetonians flock here for a day in the country with lunch and fine wine, but by evening, calm returns to the valley.
We find a wonderful B&B at the edge of town which affords 360 degrees of mountain views from its lovely verandahs and garden. The house is surrounded by 8 hectares of 5 year old grapevines, and a garden with roses, irises and proteas. Grace and Mike have a very nicely appointed welcoming B&B, and are fountains of information about the valley they’ve now called home since 1979.
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